Surfing

So yesterday was the last day of the ASP Boost Mobile Pro contest that comes around this week in September every year. I was totally stoked because I happened to be lucky enough to be here in San Diego the VERY week the tour came to town! ..so I was planning on going today or Saturday to watch the finals, because I LOVE it! But gosh dangit, the swell hit so perfectly for the first half of the week, that they pounded the heats out, and ended early. :( Of COURSE Slater won, he's a machine. BUT only by less than HALF a point!! And the total bummer is that he beat Taj! (For those of you who don't know, Taj Burrow is the man.. and my favorite.) Anyway, I'm bummed I missed it.. but I made up for the loss by paddling out this morning with my dad. Man, being away from the ocean makes me sort of forget my passion and the happiness that builds from surfing.. and the second I paddle out, it all comes back to me. I miss it while I'm gone, but moreso after I've just had an awesome session and realize I have to leave it again in 2 days. ..oh well, that's life. I love the ocean, but I love my husband more. I'm coming back to you Andrew very soon, hang in there! Hopefully Birdie hasn't driven him insane. :)